Composite Decking is manufactured using the following raw materials:

Wood Flour

Recycled wood, a bi-product from timber manufacturing processes, in the form of chipping, sawdust etc. is ground into a fine powder or Flour.

HDPE Plastics, resins & colorants

A ‘pellet’ combining the plastic, color & resin content.

The Production Process

Wood Flour and the plastic pellets are loaded into a Compounder or Blender. The 2 Raw Materials are compounded & compressed into the form shown in the image above.

This mixture (+- 65% wood flour) is heated to the correct temperature for the extrusion process. Now that the mixture is in a liquid form, it is injected into the die which forms the shape of the product.

As the new shape is extruded from the die, it is cooled.  This continuous length moves towards a cut off saw where it is cut to more standard sizes.

Boards are brushed or embossed for a natural finish


It used to be much easier to decide how to construct a deck. Did you want to make it out of wood — or wood? Nowadays, there’s a vast array of decking available, and some of it doesn’t even have a trace of wood in it. Why all the options? It’s part of our never-ending quest to make things better, easier, and more c­onvenient. The common denominator in wood decking, whether it’s treated pine, Balau or other hardwoods, is the need for regular care and maintenance. Sanding, staining and resealing are an annual chore for some, but others might go two or three years between treatments.

In recent years some sharp entrepreneurs, recognizing that many homeowners might appreciate a lower-maintenance option, came up with some alternatives. The segment of the decking industry that’s seen the biggest change is what’s called composite decking. Composite decking is typically made from a combination of different materials (namely, wood and plastic), which are processed to give the appearance of wood. Both the wood (which consists of Timber industry byproducts like sawdust, chips, and wood fiber) and the plastic can be made from virgin or recycled material.

Manufacturers mix the components, often adding a pigment and preservative. The mixture is heated, formed into board-shaped lengths, and then cooled. The resulting board of composite decking is usually heavier than wood but not as strong. But composite decking is resistant to rot, doesn’t warp, won’t giv­e people splinters, and doesn’t need to be painted, stained, or sealed. The color of most composite decking will fade somewhat after the initial installation. Homeowners are encouraged to keep their composite decking swept clean, attend to any stains as soon as possible, and hose it down twice a year, finishing with a soap and water scrub.


Hate making decisions? Well, lucky for you there are only two types of comp­osite decking on the market: solid and hollow. Solid looks more like wood and is heavier than the hollow version. Because of its greater mass, solid decking will expand and contract more with temperature fluctuations.

Hollow composite decking has a more man-made look. However, it won’t expand and contract as much as solid composite decking.


There are three types of composite decking material: polyethylene-based, polypropylene-based and nonwood plastics. Oil-based polyethylene and polypropylene composite decking contain some wood. The industry seems to be moving away from polyethylene-based composites to focus on the polypropylene-based product (which is typically stronger and less susceptible to expansion and compression) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC)-based product. These plastic­s have no wood content, do not stain or absorb water. Technology is enabling manufacturers to give all these composites a look and feel that approximates real wood.

A variety of factors come into play when you’re choosing the material for a composite deck, such as cost, availability of colour and a hidden fastener system. Composite decking is initially slightly more expensive than some woods, but how much depends on the particular product.


While the materials for a composite deck are more expensive than most wood, installation costs are fairly comparable. The same foundation of pressure-treated wood is used for both wood and composite decks, but there are several differences between the way wood and composite decking are gapped and supported.

The manufacturer’s specifications will guide the size of the gaps required for the composite decking. Gapping (between boards and between the decking and an abutting wall) is necessary to accommodate the expansion and compression that is inherent in composite decking. To determine ho­w many fasteners you’ll need for a deck installation, multiply the number of joists by the number of decking boards.

Drainage and airflow are crucial to keeping composite decking from degrading. To install composite decking over a solid surface, you need to build a sleeper system. The surface below the deck needs to be pitched for drainage or outfitted with a gutter system.

Also, the type of composite decking will dictate certain parts of the installation. For hollow decking, you need to use a picture frame design or a starter strip. The starter strip covers the end of the first piece, hiding the fact that it’s not solid. Hollow decking also needs a screw at every junction where a joist meets the decking board.

One final note: While most composite decking manufacturers offer warranties on their products, the warranty will be void if the installation does not precisely follow the manufacturer’s directions because a bad installation can result in a degraded, unsafe deck.